When it comes to men’s fashion, confidence is key. But let’s talk more about etiquette when it comes to wearing a custom suit. There’s a lot more to it than just feeling comfortable about how you look. Though it’s not often said, there are some etiquette rules you need to follow to really nail that sophisticated, sharp look. So, let’s go over the ways to wear a suit so that you look as put-together as you feel.
From finding the perfect fit to knowing when to button up or loosen up, this guide will help you.
The Basics of How to Wear a Suit
Suit Button Etiquette: Unbutton the Jacket When You Sit Down
To keep your suit from creasing or pulling, follow the suit button rule: always unbutton your jacket before sitting down. This small step allows for more arm and shoulder movement while keeping your suit looking freshly pressed. Remove your coat when driving or riding in an automobile.
Show Off Some Cuff
A classic style move is to let your shirt cuff peek out from your jacket sleeve, ideally around ¼” to ¾”. This subtle detail adds a touch of elegance to your look, especially if your shirt cuffs are well-designed or accessorized with cufflinks. Daniel George recommends showing ¾” for formalwear, ½” when wearing a suit, and ¼’ when you’re wearing a sport coat or blazer.
Don’t Button the Bottom Button
It's a timeless rule: never button the bottom button of your jacket. This tradition dates back to the early 20th century and is followed to maintain the natural drape of the jacket and ensure a flattering silhouette. Even if your suit has multiple buttons, leave the bottom one undone. The rule applies to your waistcoat as well. It all began with a plump royal on horseback.
Don’t Match Your Tie With Your Pocket Square
While your tie and pocket square should complement each other, avoid matching them exactly. Opt instead for coordinating colors, patterns, or textures to add visual interest and dimension to your outfit. For example, if your tie features a bold pattern, choose a pocket square in a complementary solid color. A solid tie with a boldly patterned pocket square can add a pop. Have a little more fun when going without a necktie however the white linen square in your suit breast welt is most tasteful. Contrary to the rule; The Duke of Windsor had impeccable style and mixed many patterns.
Match Your Belt & Shoe Color
For a cohesive and put-together look, coordinate the color of your belt with your shoes. This doesn't mean they have to be an exact match, but they should be in the same color family. For example, if you're wearing brown shoes, choose a brown belt, and if you're wearing black shoes, opt for a black belt.
Also, think about alternative & masculine colors for shoes & belts like olive and navy.
Suit Styling Tips
Suit Colors
Classic Navy: A versatile option suitable for various occasions, navy suits exude sophistication and can be dressed up or down with ease.
Charcoal Gray: Another staple color, charcoal gray suits are timeless and offer a refined, professional look suitable for business settings. Oxford gray is ideal for business as usual and the charcoal gray goes from office to evening quite nicely.
Medium to Dark Gray: This versatile shade works well for both formal (like a wedding) and semi-formal occasions, offering a modern twist on traditional suiting.
Light Gray: Ideal for warmer weather or more casual events, light gray suits add a touch of freshness and can be paired with a variety of shirt and tie combinations.
Black: Reserved for formal occasions, black suits convey refinement and authority but should be worn sparingly and during the evening.
And finally, the classic navy blue or charcoal gray pinstripe suit makes any man look taller and leaner.
Proper Fitment
Jacket Fit: Ensure the shoulders of the jacket sit snugly without any pulling or bulging. The jacket should button comfortably without any strain, the sleeves should break just at your wrist when you are standing with your arms relaxed. Just a bit of shirt and watch should peek out.
Pants Fit: Opt for trousers that sit comfortably at your natural waistline with a slight break at the bottom. Avoid overly baggy or excessively tight pants, as they can detract from the overall look of your suit. Avoid overly tailored “Slim fit” or “skinny fit” pants that detract from the hourglass effect a well-fitting suit has.
Accessories:
Ties: Choose ties that complement the color and pattern of your suit, opting for silk or wool materials for a polished finish. The wool/silk/linen blends are very popular with Daniel George clients. Consider experimenting with different knot styles to add personality to your look. Try the four in hand and don’t pull the knot too tightly. You’ll quickly ruin the tie.
Pocket Squares are essential and that’s what the breast welt is intended for.
Belts: avoid wearing a belt with your suit trousers. They make a man appear shorter and heavier and may distract from your overall look. A proper suit trouser should have side tabs and buttons for braces.
Shoes: Invest in quality leather shoes in classic styles such as oxfords or derbys. Ensure they are well-maintained and polished to complete your sophisticated ensemble. Purchase 3 pairs at once and rotate them, keeping shoe trees in them after each wear. Professional (good) polish and re-soleling them every 2 years will keep your shoes beautiful and maintained for years.
Suit Shopping Tips
When it comes to buying suits, here are some key tips to keep in mind:
Measurements: A proper custom suit is crafted based on measurements taken by your designer or tailor. A truly custom fit requires several measurements. If your designer isn’t taking various measurements like neck, chest, overarm, waist, seat, sleeve outseams, pant outseams, bicep measurements, cuff size, shoulder slope, and posture then it is likely not truly a custom suit.
Consider Fabric and Season: Choose the right fabric and weight for the season and occasion. Lightweight wool or linen blend suits are ideal for summer, while heavier wool, silk, and flannel provide warmth for winter.
Focus on Fit: Look for suits that fit well in the shoulders and chest, sleeve lengths, button stance, and drape. A properly tailored suit enhances your silhouette and boosts confidence.
Classic Colors: Opt for versatile colors like navy, charcoal gray, or medium gray for maximum versatility. Brown is a wonderful option for those looking to escape the ordinary and it generally looks good on men. These colors can be dressed up or down for various occasions and never go out of style.
Quality Construction: Pay attention to details like pic-stitching, lining, and buttons. Quality construction ensures durability and longevity, so invest in well-made suits from reputable fabric mills. A full canvas chest and surgeon’s cuffs are imperative.
Budget Wisely: Consider the value of investment pieces that will last for years versus trendy styles that may quickly go out of fashion. A properly tailored suit is measured to the man, not the moment.
Finding the right custom clothier: When shopping for a custom suit you are investing in a garment, and your appearance. Explore several options before committing to buying, consider a clothiers availability, immediate availability should be a red flag. Any good custom clothier should be busy and avoid the cheap custom-made suit. The value proposition is lost and cheap and quality do not coexist.
Personally Meet with Daniel George
For the ultimate in fit and style, consider investing in a custom-tailored suit from Daniel George in Chicago or San Francisco. With meticulous attention to detail and expert craftsmanship, Daniel George offers custom suits tailored to your frame and sensibilities. Elevate your wardrobe with personalized suits that exude sophistication and confidence. Not the least expensive or most expensive but a great value proposition. You can expect our undivided attention and no high-pressure sales tactics. You’ll know if we’re right for you. Either way, we will always respect your time and consideration.